The wheels will be the only part of the bike that I won’t have when the build is complete. There is a logical reason for this. Even though I’d like the wheels to be the permanent set when I first go out and ride this bike, I think I’d like to see how this bike rides before making that decision. It’s entirely possible that the frame is more or less rigid (harsh versus soft) than I am used to. One thing is for sure, it won’t be my current frame. Since the wheels contribute the most to ride feel after the actual frame, I’m holding off on this decision just for a bit.

The frame was built with basic wheels in mind. This would be Campy Record with Mavic Open Pro rims. However, I also told Carl that I might get the Campy Euru wheels that I think look pretty cool. I can definitely be swayed by style and such, but at the end of the day, I’d like a wheelset that is serviceable and where spokes can easily be replaced.

(Update)

I’m fairly confident that I’ll be getting a pair of wheels built.

• White Industries H1 Hubs (300 grams for the set!!!)
• Niobium Rims 30mm aero (not certain yet)
• Sapim CX Ray semi-bladed spokes

(Update)

Deciding who would build my wheels was a fairly short process. Initially, I was going to go with my friend Mel who has built many sets in the past and in fact used to own his own shop. However, it turns out that I can’t source the White Industry hubs and Sapim CX-Ray spokes except pretty close to retail. I also don’t think I could get the Niobium 30′s at all except through a builder, leaving me with heavier and less aero Volocity Aeroheads or DT 1.1′s. This, combined with the fact that sourcing all the stuff for Mel to build could cost the same as a custom build sealed the deal. Sorry Mel.

There are a large number of great wheel builders around. I contacted several, but ended up with Ron Ruff at White Mountain Wheels due to a combination of reputation and accessibility. Even though he hasn’t been in business that long, he already has a great number of positive recommendations over at Road Bike Review. The guy also just responds faster than anyone else and is very helpful. Below is perhaps a tedious rundwon of my communications with him through the order process. I’ve left out most of the boring details, but left in much of the interesting responses he had to my questions. Bold is me, Italics is Ron. Note the times of response. This guy must be sitting next to his PC waiting for my e-mails!

September 26, 5pm: Initial Inquiry
September 26, 7:45pm: Initial Response

I build mostly with CX-Rays and as far as I know none have broken… I just started doing this as a business in March though, so we aren’t talking about years. And only one guy has needed to have a wheel retrued. He is a 185lb 1500W sprinter, and I let him talk me into a 24h rear hub (I suggested at least 28h).

I think the WI hubs are great if you are running Shimano or SRAM because they have a Ti feehub body… but if you are running Campy, the freehub body makes it ~25g heavier. They are still a good hubset, but this makes them heavier than DT 240s. It would be cool if they went to the minimized Campy body like the Tune hubs have. You really need a special kit to take the DT hubs apart, but WIs are more generic and easier to service IMO.

For somebody your weight I usually spec 18f and 24r with the Nio30 rims. I weigh 165lbs and that is what I ride. Very good rim… light but aero. With the WI Campy hub those would weigh ~1470 since WI has gone to bigger bearings in their front hub (now 95g vs 75g). DT hubs would be ~12g lighter, but since you’d need a 20h front hub (smallest they make), it would end up about the same.

September 27, 8am: Questions 1
September 27, 8:30am: Response 1

Lacing patterns are really less important than most people think. Any pattern that isn’t silly will usually work well. It is normal for the rear wheel to have more problems, which is why I spec 4 to 8 fewer spokes on the front. For the WI hubs I usually lace the front heads-in radial, and the rears 2x or 3x DS, and radial heads-in NDS.

Ti spokes (Pillar bladed ones are the best) are lighter and more flexible than SS spokes, but not stronger. They are good if you are after the lowest possible weight, but I don’t recommend them otherwise.

October 14, 5:30am: Questions 2
October 14, 11am: Response 2

October 14, 11:15am: Order Confirm

1) White Industries Hubs (polished – not black) (Campagnolo)
2) Niobium 30′s (black rims, machined brake surfaces)
3) Sapim CX-Ray spokes (black nipples, don’t care what color the spokes are)
4) Front: 18H, Radial heads in
5) Rear: 24H, Do whatever lacing pattern you think makes sense and will be strongest. I’ve read a lot of your posts on RBR and trust your judgment.

October 14, 11:45am: Order Response

Hi Wes… expect 3-4 weeks. BTW, I think that if you want polished hubs, the black spokes/ silver nipples combo looks nice, but any way you wish is fine. See photo.

One question concerning lacing. Do you ever do hard sprinting efforts up steep hills?

October 14, 1:45pm: Order Re-confirmation
October 14, 6:30pm: Detailed Price Quote

October 14, 10:45pm: Follow-up 1

I just saw that you have gold and mango highlights… are you sure you don’t want your nipples to match that? Do you have any silver parts on your bike?

This entry was posted on April 3, 2007 at 12:00 pm and is filed under Bicycle, Bicycling, Bike, Cycling. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed.